Dr. Ruby Dunlap’s Uganda Fulbright Blog
“Does the U.S. have a big problem with culture?” asked Eva, her small face full of concern. We had just finished reading and discussing Wellman’s chapter on “The Diverse Learning Needs of Students” in the 2009 Billings’ textbook on Teaching in Nursing. The “problem” in this chapter (pp. 21-22) is expressed partly as a catalogue of failures, failure to recruit sufficient minority nursing students and nursing faculty, failure to adequately support the minority student, etc. “Well, children in the U.S. go to similar schools,” I said, “and almost all of us speak the same language. We do have some cultural issues but I don’t think we have a ‘big problem’ with culture. What about Uganda?”

“Oh, all children in Uganda learn English from the beginning,” she said, taking her cue from me. “We don’t have a big problem with culture in Uganda.” (See photo of Eva, the young woman wearing the black sweater. Christine is busy at the computer in front of Eva who is speaking with Keren.)

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Dr. Ruby Dunlap’s Uganda Fulbright Blog
While in Kampala on Saturday, I received a frantic text message from Bob: “Come home and look at my stomach.” He was indeed in a pitiable state with an intensely itching rash and welts erupting all over him within a few hours. He was having an obvious allergic reaction to something. We thought at first it might be the laundry detergent. Perhaps Amina hadn’t rinsed his clothing sufficiently? I gave him what I had: topical diphenhydramine and also topical cortisone I had purchased at a Mukono pharmacy on the way home. I also had him take Advil PM which has close to 40 mg of diphenhydramine per tablet. That made him sleep and calmed the itching for a little while. But the rash kept growing and I began to get suspicious of the doxycycline. Antibiotics are notorious for causing rashes like the one Bob was having. I instructed him not to take any more doxy and re-washed all of his clothing, rinsing everything until the water was perfectly clear.

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Dr. Ruby Dunlap’s Uganda Fulbright Blog
Kampala is a city of unknown millions who, from a distance and from a height, has a lush look to it with many red tiled roofs nestled among trees and rolling hills. Marabou storks are its biggest birds, tall, gaunt, bald-headed carnivorous birds that prefer their meat well-aged. When one sees many of them circling, a ballet of exquisite grace for one of the world’s ugliest birds, one can be sure of a butcher shop close by.

Getting into Kampala from Mukono is a laborious drive of around an hour if one is lucky, the vehicle lurching either to avoid or try to beat other occupants of the road to a coveted spot. Lurching, I might add, in a mix of oily black diesel fumes, red Ugandan dust, and the smell of garbage which litters the roadsides. I had to make this trip four times this week. I have decided the experience gives me sensory data with which the better to enter imaginatively into Dante’s Inferno.

The first trip was on Monday for groceries, a weekly hire of driver and vehicle which has become necessarily routine. The next two trips were for a two day meeting of a Duke University sponsored “partnership to improve the Ugandan health system.” Mike Smith, the chair of health sciences at UCU, had been invited and, in turn, invited Jean Chamberlain, a Canadian OB/GYN who has made it her personal life’s mission to reduce maternal mortality in Uganda, and Edward, the Ugandan physician who heads an undergraduate program in health administration which is funded by another Canadian organization. As it turned out, I was the only nurse invited to the group.

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Dr. Ruby Dunlap’s Uganda Fulbright Blog
“Africans don’t like maps and they don’t use maps,” laughed my Ugandan colleague as he handed Mike Smith’s map to me. Mike wanted me to see the turns in the road, the towns and villages, and the geographical features of the country through which we were traveling from west to east as we headed to Sipi Falls.

“What do you do when you want to get somewhere?” I asked. “Do you just start out in the general direction?” But they laughed as though my question were hardly worth answering. Even without maps, Ugandans are a people on the move and they always seem to end up where they want to be. Ben, our Saturday afternoon speaker for the retreat, told us the chilling story of how Idi Amin had punched him in the face, causing the loss of his eye, and how he had followed the railroad track by foot to escape being murdered by Amin’s henchmen. It took him nine days to walk from Kampala to the Kenyan border to safety, the railroad mapping his path securely.

Ben, at the time the editor of one of Uganda’s English language newspapers, hadn’t caught a typographical error in the headlines. The headline was supposed to read, “Amin Raps Nyerere” or some such other African leader. Someone had inadvertently put an “e” after the “p” in “Raps” and Ben had not caught it before it went to press. Amin was not amused. “Ben is one of the few important people who survived the Amin years,” one of the Ugandans told me later.

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Dr. Ruby Dunlap’s Uganda Fulbright Blog
Members who could from UCU’s health sciences department spent the weekend in a retreat at Sipi Falls near the Kenya border. That I survived this experience is testament to a God in heaven. It all began innocently enough with Faith, one of those splendidly capable young women such as Belmont’s school of nursing has in Karen and Heather, telling me “we would do a little walking.” Faith had organized the whole thing, all the meals and the stay at the Crow’s Nest at Sipi Falls. Why that name didn’t make me suspicious I’ll never know.
We loaded up on the school of nursing bus: department head, physician Mike Smith who, besides myself, was the only other expatriate. Faith, Maureen, and Dorothy, department administrative coordinators. Jemimah, the chair of nursing.
Edward, a physician, who is the administrator of a MBA in healthcare. Francis, one of the instructors for their BS in community health, an important non-nursing health profession in developing countries. Clarissa and Selah (pronounced Sell-ah) from the MPH in maternal-infant health. Mike told me it’s actually an MPHL (MPHLeader) degree, open to anyone with a previous bachelor’s degree and very popular; it has UCU’s largest enrollment for a health profession. Tom was our driver. And finally, Grace and the other Faith, two of my MNS students and also faculty for the RN-BNS program. Here’s a photo of our first meal stop, lunch on Friday. I had beans and rice with greens, all delicious.

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Dr. Ruby Dunlap’s Uganda Fulbright Blog
Had it been a philosophical chicken, it certainly would have appreciated Thomas Hobbes and his cynical view of things. From the moment it emerged from its shell, wet and tottering, until it was finally dispatched by someone to be eaten by me and mine, it had lived to eat brutishly and avoid being eaten nastily.

It had been marginally successful in its first ambition and finally unsuccessful in its last. Now, to add insult to injury, I was critically gazing at its scrawny, blue-tinged carcass and wondering why I had paid 12,000 Ugandan shillings for it, roughly about 6 USD.
Chicken, I had been told, is more expensive than beef in Uganda. My experience has validated that. A plump fryer-sized chicken in a Kampala grocery store costs about 16,000 shillings or 8 USD. A pound-sized package of minced (ground) lean beef costs about 1.50 USD. The chicken in my kitchen had been purchased, sight unseen, from someone Karen had said raised really extra good chickens. This must have been one of their bad-chicken days.

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Dr. Ruby Dunlap’s Uganda Fulbright Blog
Karen Drake is a tall, strong woman whose primary home is now Minneapolis but who has spent most of her life on foreign missions of one kind or another. She lived with her parents in Japan until she was 17 years old, becoming fluent in all things Japanese.

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Dr. Ruby Dunlap’s Uganda Fulbright Blog
“Do not,” warned Ben, the security specialist at the U.S. embassy, “go toward a crowd of people. Move away as quickly as you can when a crowd starts to gather.” Uganda is among those countries distinguished by regular occurrences of mob justice within its borders.

A couple of U.S. college students in their study abroad semester at Uganda Christian University, perhaps motivated by curiosity mixed with the natural tendency to behave in ways opposite from what one has been told, went towards a crowd instead of away from it and witnessed the beating to death of a man by a mob.

The day after we arrived, the local paper had a story about a landlord who was first hacked and then burned to death by irate tenants who had heard he was thinking of selling his property. It happens here regularly enough, “mob justice,” a category of justice within this society. Litigation is rare among those Ugandans who have cheaper and more effective ways of retribution at their disposal.

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Dr. Ruby Dunlap’s Uganda Fulbright Blog
The circulatory system of Kampala is an atherosclerotic mesh of streets most of which wind through the vast slums which, if reports are correct, characterize the cities of the so-called developing parts of this planet. There are sections of privileged residences and businesses behind fortresses of thickly spiked walls, gates and hired guards.
The U.S. embassy is one of these, a massive structure of multiple barriers and checks. Our embassy driver had never left his vehicle but hired nationals guarding the entrance still lifted the hood and ran a mirror underneath it to check for any discourtesies before allowing it to proceed through yet more checks and barriers when we arrived at the embassy around 9 am Wednesday morning.

We walked through a metal detector. I had to leave my three memory sticks and calculator at a front desk; no electronic devices of any kind are allowed to be carried into the embassy. After that, we had to leave our passports with a young Marine who sat behind thick glass at the final check. We were met by Dorothy, the Ugandan national who works as a cultural affairs attaché and who had facilitated the orientation for the Ugandan Fulbrighters in Washington in June.

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Dr. Ruby Dunlap’s Uganda Fulbright Blog
“Monkeys live at the top of the hill,” university staff told us. “They are shy, not like baboons. At the top of the hill is your best chance of seeing them.” Camera in hand, I determined this morning to go photo-hunting for the resident monkeys. I tried several roads which went left and up but always dead-ended in someone’s driveway.
Finally, I came across a young man getting off his motorcycle in one of the driveways. Just beyond the driveway was a high gated area around several huge water tanks. “Good morning,” I said, “I’m Dr. Ruby Dunlap. I’m trying to find the way to the top of the hill.” (I wear the “Dr.” with egalitarian American lightness but Ugandans value titles as much as they value conservative attire and one potentially offends by being too casual with either.)

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Dr. Ruby Dunlap’s Uganda Fulbright Blog
The hour of reckoning, the day of doom, must elicit a look on the human face which is among those things transcending place or time. We arrived at Uganda Christian University at the end of the first week of final exams and just before the beginning of the second week when pen to paper or mouse to screen stand in as prototypes for that Apocalyptic opening of books.

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Dr. Ruby Dunlap’s Uganda Fulbright Blog
That Ireland has no snakes is hardly more remarkable than that Germany has few enough flies and mosquitoes to make the leaving open of windows and doors during pleasant weather a practical option. The meeting of wind with curtain, the outdoor garden with indoor polished wood unimpeded by inelegant mesh screens, is one of the pleasures of being in Germany, ranking behind German bread but, for me anyhow, considerably before the autobahn.

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Dr. Ruby Dunlap’s Uganda Fulbright Blog
This is the story before the story. The story will begin when a door opens and I take my first breath of African air after a 43 year absence. I imagine I will be too tired to process much at that moment but that will be the real beginning. The beginning of what? We shall see. This blog exists so I can share the “what” with you as it unfolds. This first story is a chance for you to take a look at the program before the curtain opens.
As a child, I could hardly imagine a life outside Africa. Normal for me varied between the hot, scrubby bush of Somalia and the lush, green, high country of Tanzania where I went to school for awhile.

These normals were spiked with yearly visits to Nairobi. The Nairobi of my memory was a city of well-tended gardens, double-decker buses, fragrant open-air markets, and crisply uniformed officers directing traffic with white gloved efficiency. As a bush child, Nairobi was the closest thing to paradise I knew. As that child all grown up, Nairobi’s sad decline has been reported to me by people different enough for me to believe it. I don’t want it to be true. I don’t want any of the tragic stories out of Africa to be true.

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Dr. Ruby Dunlap, associate professor in the School of Nursing, was recently selected as a 2009-10 U.S. Fulbright Scholar for Sub-Saharan Africa, specifically Uganda. Dunlap will be a guest lecturer in nursing at Uganda Christian University which is located 23 kilometers outside of Kampala, Uganda. She will also be conducting research on how standards of nursing are adapted to austere conditions.
“It is deeply humbling to be given this kind of trust,” Dunlap said. “I’m looking forward to collaborating in discovery and service with colleagues in Uganda and hope to represent Belmont and the Nashville community well in this assignment.”

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