Dr. Ruby Dunlap’s Uganda Fulbright Blog
“Africans don’t like maps and they don’t use maps,” laughed my Ugandan colleague as he handed Mike Smith’s map to me. Mike wanted me to see the turns in the road, the towns and villages, and the geographical features of the country through which we were traveling from west to east as we headed to Sipi Falls.
“What do you do when you want to get somewhere?” I asked. “Do you just start out in the general direction?” But they laughed as though my question were hardly worth answering. Even without maps, Ugandans are a people on the move and they always seem to end up where they want to be. Ben, our Saturday afternoon speaker for the retreat, told us the chilling story of how Idi Amin had punched him in the face, causing the loss of his eye, and how he had followed the railroad track by foot to escape being murdered by Amin’s henchmen. It took him nine days to walk from Kampala to the Kenyan border to safety, the railroad mapping his path securely.
Ben, at the time the editor of one of Uganda’s English language newspapers, hadn’t caught a typographical error in the headlines. The headline was supposed to read, “Amin Raps Nyerere” or some such other African leader. Someone had inadvertently put an “e” after the “p” in “Raps” and Ben had not caught it before it went to press. Amin was not amused. “Ben is one of the few important people who survived the Amin years,” one of the Ugandans told me later.